Hollywood legend Mae West was famous for her ultra-glamorous, larger-than-life persona, but she stood barely 5 feet tall. To gain a commanding screen presence and stand eye-to-eye with towering leading men like Cary Grant, she famously wore custom-made, “double-decker” platform shoes that added between 8 to 9.5 inches to her height.
A marvel of vintage footwear engineering, these shoes literally featured one shoe bolted on top of another. A set of white platform straps sat atop a lower pair of wooden silver pumps. The bottom section created a “fake foot” illusion to fool onlookers. Hidden beneath her signature floor-length gowns, only the bottom silver toes would peek out from the hemline. This kept her massive height advantage a complete secret from audiences.
Her towering footwear directly birthed her trademark cinematic style. West could not take normal steps in 9-inch wooden blocks, so she adopted a slow, rhythmic, swaying sashay. What audiences perceived as a deliberate, seductive stride was actually a gait born out of pure necessity to keep from falling over.
Several pairs of her custom platforms survive in prominent historical fashion archives. ASU FIDM Museum holds several pairs (including 1950s performance shoes measuring 9½ inches total, plus her foot traces used for custom lasts) and has displayed the “double-decker” style. The George Washington University Museum and The Textile Museum has shown a pair of her 1950s wooden/metallic-leather platforms (around 8 inches). Other pairs have appeared in exhibitions such as the Museum of Fine Arts, Boston’s Hollywood glamour shows.
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