Born 1912 into a wealthy Italian family and raised in Trieste, Count Ferdinando Sarmi expressed interest in fashion as a youth but was discouraged from pursuing a design career by his father. He stated in a 1965 interview with Time, “in Italy, when the oldest son tells his father he wants to be a dress designer, it’s like a woman saying she intends to be a prostitute.”
Fashion designs by Ferdinando Sarmi in the 1960s
Sarmi’s father sent him to study at the University of Siena, where he received a doctor of law degree. Despite his professional training, he still desired a career in fashion. He became a costume designer and created costumes for two Italian films: Musica Proibita (released as Forbidden Music in the US) in 1942 and Cronaca di un Amore (released as Story of a Love Affair in the US) in 1950. Sarmi was given a leading role in Cronaca di un Amore, but it was his first and only on-screen performance. He left Italy in 1950 to work in New York fashion.
From 1951 to 1959, Sarmi was head designer for Elizabeth Arden. It was during this time that he developed a reputation as a top designer, wooing an influential clientele that included celebrities, New York socialites, and foreign dignitaries. He was best known for his opulent evening looks, and for his use of extravagant fabrics.
Sarmi left Arden and opened his own Seventh Avenue boutique in 1959. In 1960, he was awarded the prestigious Coty Award for fashion design. His collection included haute couture and ready-to-wear apparel that set the pace for 1960s fashion in New York. His designs commonly featured intricate embroideries, vivid colors, and racy hemlines.
During the late 1960s, the house fell upon financial difficulties. In 1972, his business was renamed Ferdinando Sarmi, but it closed shortly thereafter. By 1977, Sarmi had resettled in Italy, and he died in Verona in 1982. These amazing photos captured portraits of classic beauties wearing fashion designs by Ferdinando Sarmi in the 1960s.
Betsy Pickering in pale blue satin stole bow-fastened on white satin strapless gown rising in front and dipping in back by Sarmi, shoes by Christian Dior, Albert Weiss earrings, photo by Melvin Sokolsky, Harper’s Bazaar, November 1960
Revlon Touch and Glow ad, gown by Sarmi, jewelry by Van Cleef & Arpels, 1960
Sondra Peterson wearing a hat of pink and red carnations by Sally Victor, gray wool suit by Sarmi, photo by Karen Radkai used for cover, Vogue, 1960
Isabella Albonico in pale pink suit of alpaca, wool and silk with huskier pink overblouse by Sarmi, jewelry by Van Cleef & Arpels, photo by Bert Stern, Vogue, February 15, 1961
Dorothea McGowan in tangerine velvet evening dress, the bodice embroidered in gold, the jacket cuffed in sable, by Sarmi, coiffure by Kenneth Batelle, photo by Bert Stern, Vogue, November 1, 1962
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