Rico Puhlmann: The Photographer of Post-War Chic

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Rico Puhlmann (1934–1996) was a highly influential German fashion photographer and illustrator who shaped the aesthetic of the industry from the post-war era to the 1990s.

Initially training as a graphic designer in Berlin, Puhlmann brought an astute understanding of composition and color to his photography, helping to define the early look of “Berliner Chic.” After moving to New York in the 1970s, he rose to international prominence, serving as the chief photographer for Harper’s Bazaar for over two decades and regularly contributing to magazines like Vogue and GQ.
His signature style was a blend of intimate glamour and lyrical realism, where he preferred to photograph high fashion and celebrity portraits—such as those of Cindy Crawford and Isabella Rossellini—in natural, relatable settings rather than dramatic studios, making elegance look effortless.
Puhlmann’s prolific and celebrated career was tragically cut short in the TWA Flight 800 crash in 1996, but his legacy endures as a master who successfully transitioned fashion photography into the modern era. These glamorous photos are part of the work where Rico Puhlmann captured fashion portraits of iconic models across the 1960s.
Denise Sarrault is wearing evening gown by Schwichtenberg, Berlin, photo by Rico Puhlmann, published in Stern, October 1960

Fashion photo by Rico Puhlmann, Berlin, 1960

Ina Balke in coat by Gehringer & Glupp in front of Brandenburg Gate, Berlin, photographed by Rico Puhlmann for Beyer Moden, Spring/Summer 1960

Lissy Scharper wearing a cocktail dress by Staebe-Seger, New York, photographed by Rico Puhlmann for Stern, July 1960

Lissy Scharper, photo by Rico Puhlmann, New York, 1960

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